Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.